Beating the crowds in Litchfield National Park

Another must-see in the Top End is Litchfield National Park. There are great hikes, stunning waterfalls and swimming holes galore which is a necessity in the perma-heat of NT.

After our magical stay in Kakadu we were keen to see all that Litchfield had to offer. But from the moment we entered, it was worlds away from the quiet of Kakadu.  Litchfield is only just over an hours drive from Darwin, making it a very easy day trip for locals and tourists. And the grey nomads and their caravans just love the sealed roads within the park.

So from that moment on our visit to Litchfield became an exercise in finding some quiet time away from the masses. The best way to find some alone time in Litchfield is fairly obvious 1. Don’t visit during peak season (May – September) and 2. Hire a four-wheel drive so you can get off the bitumen. Unfortunately for us we were visiting in June, and all the off-road tracks were still impassable due to clean up operations so we had to be a bit more creative.

Your best bet is to go anywhere which requires a bit of a walk in. Most day trippers are only prepared for a short walk from the car park, so adding a few km’s will really help escape the crowds. Don’t get me wrong, the main “attractions” are definitely still work a visit. Buley Rockholes are a series of waterfalls and pools and a great place to sit and cool down. If you’re very lucky you will get a pool to yourself, but most likely you will be sharing it with 2 British backpackers and 2 60+ couples on their trip around Australia. Near Buley is Florence Falls, a spectacular double waterfall set in a monsoon forest. It was stunning, but the experience was somewhat marred by the children with their pool noodles.

Florence Falls

Wangi Falls is one of Litchfield’s most popular places to visit and swim and it is so easily accessible, during the day it is like an outdoor swimming pool, packed with people. Aside from swimming, there are some lovely walks around Wangi, up into the trees and over the falls themselves. The best way to ensure you experience Wangi all to yourself is to camp nearby and go either at sunset or sunrise once all the day trippers and tour buses have gone. Only don’t expect the camp grounds to be quiet either. We turned up after lunch and were lucky to find a spot to pitch our tent in the designated 3 grassy areas. All the camp sites are first come first served, and you cannot book so you’ll definitely be sharing. But camping there is pretty special. Once night falls and everyone goes to bed, all that you can hear is the water cascading down from Wangi Falls into the pool below.  Well that and the rustling…

Wangi Forest Track

Wangi Falls

So right next to our tent was a large pile of leaves and general forest undergrowth and all we could hear all night was the rustling of something dashing around. And every time I poked my head and torch out the tent to see what was going on…silence. So I lay there all night listening to the waterfalls and the rustling wondering if a snake can make that much noise. At dawn we woke up and carried our camp stove and coffee maker down to the falls and watched as the escarpments turned rosy pink before going for a morning swim. Once back at the campground and in the light of day, the serial night rustler finally revealed themselves – a Great Bowerbird! This little chap had been busy collecting stones, shells, tin foil and bottlecaps and to line his nest.

Bower Bird Nest

Another great place which will get you away from the crowds is Tjaetaba Falls. One of the more obscure waterfalls in the park and with a 3km return walk to the falls, fewer people venture here. This quiet track winds along the creek and past hillsides of cycads, before reaching the impressive waterfall. There is a viewing platform further down but if you continue walking right to the top of the falls there is a plunge pool perfect for swimming. However, make sure you only swim at the top of the falls, as the pool at the bottom is culturally significant to the local Aboriginal people.

But the best place to truly get away from everything and everyone is Walker Creek - one of Litchfield’s best kept secrets. Suitable only for tents, this walk-in camping area has just 6 sites in a series of isolated riverside locations. The 3.5km return walk follows the creek, meandering past each camp site before finally reaching a clearing and your own private swimming hole and waterfall.

Top of Tjaetaba Falls

Walker Creek

Some other notes on Litchfield:

There is no fuel within the park so have your jerry cans ready, especially if you’re planning to tackle the 4WD tracks. Likewise there are no bins or drinking water, so take all your rubbish out with you, and either boil water before drinking or bring your own.

And of course, it’s croc country. There are designated swimming areas which are managed, but some waterways can become unsafe after heavy rain so always check signs and warnings.