DAYS 37 + 38: Grand Canyon

September 05, 2014

DAYS 37 + 38: Grand Canyon

We drove from Utah back into Arizona and towards the South Rim of the Grand Canyon. Once across the border we stopped at Horseshoe Bend – a stunning horseshoe shaped meander of the Colorado River near the town of Page before it continues on into the Grand Canyon. It’s less than a 2 mile hike out and back but in the blaring 40 degree heat the soft sand trail felt like pretty hard work. We continued driving on and entered the Canyon just in time for sunset. We walked out to Yavapai Point and sat on the rocks waiting for the sun to go down. We got an amazing panorama view of the inner canyon and the Colorado River and as the sun set the rocks started to glow red whilst the sky to the west remained a bright turquoise.

Horseshoe Bend

Sunset from Yavapai Point

The following morning we woke up to the last thing we expected to see – RAIN! And lots of it. Hurricane Norbert off the coast of Mexico is causing lots of moisture in the air, leading to localised heavy rainfall and thunderstorms in the area. We decided to let the storm pass before heading to the Canyon as we were planning to do a rim hike and this is really dangerous if lightening is present. Instead we headed to Flagstaff, just off Historic Route 66 for the morning. Flagstaff’s early economies were based on lumber and the railroad and this still figures heavily in the town’s identity. We wandered around the pedestrian friendly downtown which is crammed with eclectic vernacular architecture and vintage neon signs.

Rain!

Flagstaff

Route 66 Mural

Storm coming towards Flagstaff

With the storm now approaching Flagstaff, we jumped back in the car and headed to the Grand Canyon. As we got there the sun was starting to emerge and highlight the beautiful colours in the rocks with little fluffy clouds still hanging around in the canyon. We caught the shuttle out to Hermit’s Rest and decided to walk the 8 miles back to the Grand Canyon Village. Tucked away a meter or so from the rim of the Canyon at Hermit’s Rest there is a little stone structure built in 1914 designed by architect Mary Colter. The structure was designed to look like a natural rock formation and blend into the landscape. Inside is a huge semi-circular alcove with a fireplace. From there we walked to Pima Point which provides stunning views of the Colorado River. Apparently on a quiet day you are meant to be able to hear the water crashing over the Granite Rapids which echoes up the canyon walls but with the weather finally clear, all the Grand Canyon helicopter tours had started up and this was the only sound we could hear… The view was amazing though, we could see about 40 miles of the canyon and the geologic layers of the canyon walls were so clear. It also made me very glad we waited for the storm to pass as we saw a tree that had been hit by lightening and completely split in half!

Stunning colours of the canyon

Hermit's Rest

Pima Point

Pima Point - Views of the Colorado River

Grand Canyon selfie!

The next 2 miles to Monument Creek were just incredible. Every overlook and vista we stopped at was spectacular. We also caught sight of several Condors which were gliding through the canyon on thermal updrafts. They are huge, their wingspan is about 3m and they got pretty close to the canyon rim. Two even landed and started chilling on the rocks. I think one of the best places we went to was Powell’s Point. You can walk out to a narrow spur which hangs right above the canyon and get incredible views of everything below. We could also see the Bright Angel Trail which heads down to the valley floor. We were really keen to do this hike but as it is 10miles in one direction it’s too dangerous in the heat to do in one day and we couldn’t get overnight accommodation at the ranch at the bottom. I guess we have to leave something to do when we come back.